When a new food destination opens – whether it be a restaurant, boutique market, grab-and-go, food truck, what have you – there’s always a buzz that floats through Toronto, usually starting in the foodie community and then wafting through to the socialites and professionals, and finally to the masses. When Oliver and Bonacini has something to do with it, though, the chain reaction gets stunted, and it seems like everyone knows the second construction begins and branded coverings hide the magic evolving inside.
Such was the case with Bannock, when only a few short months ago the Bay and Queen corner of The Bay’s flagship store was overtaken and the new restaurant undertaken. Oliver and Bonacini have successfully done it again – we’d say they’re veterans in the field, but as Peter Oliver pointed out during an intro to Bannock yesterday, the term does little to please the pair – as it were, and have masterfully created another sure-to-be instant success.
Bannock, which opens Monday, serves up Canadian comfort food done O&B style, that is to say with flare and grace. The space is inviting and warm, much like an uber-upscale country cabin; clean and modern, but tactile with antique pine and reclaimed hemlock from the bottom of Lake Ontario, splashes of whimsy and charm, and concrete made to look like wood grain all contribute to the calming and pleasing environment. In essence there are two sides to Bannock, the sit down restaurant awash with comfort, and the boutique-style grab-and-go section with a much smaller seating area and corner patio, where prepared foods can be bought for breakfast, lunch, and dinner – perfect for the on-the-go young professional.
As Karen Skobel, Principal at Toronto firm deSignum Design – responsible for Bannock, O&B Artisan, and Compass Group Canada’s Foodwares, both of which we’ll get to in another post – describes, Bannock can be looked at as a Canoe for the masses.
The menu is Canadian comfort food classics at their best. Developed by Michael Bonacini, Corporate Executive Chef Anthony Walsh and a dedicated team of O&B chefs, the dishes are meant to be hearty and pleasing, based on the meals and recipes immigrants to Canada brought here over the last couple of centuries.
At yesterday’s preview, we tried the boneless back rib burger with smoky tomato jam – kind of Bannock’s take on a BLT as we were told – rich with flavour, savoury and slightly sweet and the meat could not have been more tender; the griddled mac and cheese with a sauce similar in consistency and texture to a beschamel but of course loaded with the taste of, surprise, Canadian cheese; the Bannock bannock – fyi, bannock is a traditional flatbread that was brought to Canada by Scottish explorers and traders – with sashimi-thin slices of smoked salmon, capers, and pickled onion; the whitefish and shrimp cake, absolutely delightful with the perfect amount of crispness that didn’t overshadow the taste or tenderness of the fish; the Arcadian Court (yes, O&B has secured the food services at this Toronto favourite event space, too) Chicken Pot Pie, homey and traditional – it’s nice to see Bannock knows when to draw the line at updating the classics; and a small version of the menu’s St-Canut pulled pork tourtiere, darkly spiced and deep in profile.
Oliver and Bonacini’s Bannock also has a fantastic selection of cocktails, as is expected. Of the four we sampled, our favourites were The Back Forty (gin, cucumber limeade, white cranberry juice, cointreau and dill puree) which was refreshing and crisp, brightened with the dill, and the Bannock Caesar (vodka, sherry, clamato, salsa, and maple bacon garnish) that was sweeter and has more depth than the average caesar, helped by the salsa and the Montreal steak spice rim.
Bannock is what you would expect from an Oliver and Bonacini establishment. It’s been fantastic to watch the evolution of their restaurants in the past few years, and we love that they’re paying homage to Canada in all its glory. The breads are fresh-baked in house daily, the menu samples were expertly-prepared and executed, the cocktails mixed to perfection, the decor warm and sophisticated…yup, the mark of O&B resonates in everything that comes together to make Bannock.