WVRST on King West

Every now and then a new restaurant will open that reminds us that while buff menus with ample plates can be decidedly rad, sometimes, one thing, if done right, can outshine almost any fully-loaded cuisine card. Such is the case with WVRST beer hall, a new Toronto restaurant on King West that opened early June. The menu at WVRST is simple: Sausage done two ways and fries done two ways; and of course beer, lots and lots of beer.


The space is an homage to the great beer halls of Munich. Long, glazed blonde wood cafeteria-style tables run almost the length of the “hall” while dark wood flooring provides an appropriate accent. At the bar you’ll find a minimalist stainless steel backdrop with unassuming draught taps – unassuming because they do little to advertise the amazing brews running through their pipes. And the kitchen, in plainsight, is a spotlessly clean industrial-style approach that does little to add mystery, instead letting the quality meats act as the star at all times.


When you place your order and take a seat along one of the wooden plank tables, you can’t help but start to get anxious for your order to arrive. Rightfully so: The casual aluminum trays that hold the checkered wax paper protecting your bounty can’t arrive fast enough. What you’d expect from a modern take on traditional beer hall grub is exactly what you receive. Perfectly cooked sausage with a fusion of complimentary flavours await in your first bite. Try the Bison on a bun – referred to as “North American Style” – with maple and blueberry notes adding a slight depth beneath the caramelized onions and fresh sauerkraut. The Pheasant sausage is light and crisp with apple undertones, and the Boerewors made Currywvrst (or the more traditional way) is earthy and pairs beautifully with the tomato curry sauce. The Duck Fat fries are decidedly lighter than expected, and the spicy WVRST sauce and Maple Rosemary mayo round out the side’s buttery flavour.


With a choice of 31 beers to wash down your feast, WVRST leaves little to be desired. It may not be as cheap as your favourite street meat vendor, but WVRST beer hall delivers in ways street corner sausages never could. WVRST, 609 King Street West, Toronto.