Elba was a real surprise. The idea to trip over to the island washed over me when visiting my partner’s hometown of Piombino for the first time in 2013. Standing in Piazza Bovio, I said “what’s that?” as I pointed across the sea to the distant land covered in mist. So he made a promise we’d go next time we were in Tuscany, and I made a plan for a two-day tour