Notable Restaurant: Playa Cabana Hacienda, Two Ways

2013 – the year of the Toronto taqueria? Torontonians just can’t get enough Mexican cuisine, and the Playa Cabana family are the Joneses others strive to pace. Playa Hacienda is just a few doors down from the original patriarch of the family, Playa Cabana, located at Dupont and Davenport, neither showing trouble of filling tables any night a week. Just as family members share common roots but bring unique personalities, the same as true for the Playa Cabana clan. Meet Playa Cabana Hacienda: the retro glam sister, bridging fashion and food. 

Neon signs, marquee lighting and classic movie posters dominate the décor. A drafty front door, steep staircase and uneven floorboards show the building’s heritage, but adds to the “gem hole-in-the-wall” experience. The service is passionate and well informed, our waiter keen to tell us the details behind each of the dishes and specialty cocktails. 

Let’s face it, you’re here for one reason: tacos. Refuse the salsa and guac and get three more tacos instead (yes, that’s an accurate cost comparison). You can look at the mains; we shared the stuffed poblanos, but in the end you want to spend your time, money and appetite on the extensive taco list. Ranging from a simple chipotle chicken to octopus or even a half lobster, you’ll want to, and should, try them all. Of the four we tried, none disappointed. Her favourite was the ancho-braised short rib, while he enjoyed the classic pescado as his top pick. Authentic corn tortillas and tangy, contrasting salsa or slaw are common themes, but there are enough twists to keep this list fresh and exciting. The short rib, for example, features a fried, crispy tortilla adding a sturdy crunch to the traditional flavour. Take your time and get a taste of the whole spectrum. 

In Toronto, the availability of quality tacos and Mexican food grows exponentially every day, so just what is Hacienda’s differentiator? Style. Atmosphere. Vogue. The food? It’s now commoditized here, a testament to the very high standard that has been set in our city. 

As we make our way out the door, the bartender is excited to inform us of the newest member of the Playa Cabana family, arriving the next day at Bloor and Christie. “It’s a fusion of Mexican and Korean!” he exclaims. Perhaps the taqueria differentiator is still to come… 

His rating:
For a Business Meeting: 7/10. A good picture of contemporary Toronto for out-of-towners, but the atmosphere and food will dominate the conversation. Not good for productivity.

With a Group: 9/10. Lots of tables on multiple levels and tacos for everyone!

On a Date: 9/10. Décor, atmosphere, food. Let her know you’re trendy and appreciate authenticity.

Her rating:
For a Business Meeting: 7/10. If you’re not looking for a quiet space, rather atmosphere, quality food and the ability for good conversation, go for it! Break out of your steakhouse or Italian rut and bring them somewhere memorable.

With a Group: 9/10. The menu offers many opportunities for sharing, price point is reasonable, and the table layout extends well to group diners.

On a Date: 8/10. The awkward location and lineup for a table (if you neglected to make a reservation) bring it down a few points, but overall this choice will highlight your eye for style and quality in a contemporary atmosphere. 

His last word: Two complementing hot sauces on the table – use liberally.
Her last word: Warning: the chips, salsa and guac are not free. In fact, they are pricey.

Top photo courtesy Playa Hacienda