Ah, the Izakaya. Is there any other style of restaurant as communal with such energy? Likely, but few can attack the senses in the same light. Toronto was, and still is to a point, obsessed with Guu Izakaya and then the second location Sakabar when they respectively opened in the last couple of years, and now we have another to exuberantly welcome. DonDon Izakaya recently opened it’s doors at Bay and Dundas, and Notable stopped in to check out the Japanese tapas bar-style spot.
The space is what you’d expect: traditional Japanese accoutrements lining the walls; dramatics thanks to the beating drum upon entry; bamboo galore; and communal tables with wooden benches. (A nice touch comes in the form of ‘cubbies’ beneath your seat.) The main dining area is rows of tables in a cafeteria-like setup, while the back rooms are cushioned private areas.
DonDon Izakaya is currently in soft launch, so we’re told by our adorably energetic server to keep that in mind and to help provide feedback. We ordered a succession of dishes, starting with the crisp and salty tempura battered wasabit seaweed chips, and the salmon and egg salad done deviled egg style. Both were inviting starters. A somewhat bland miso marinated mackerel followed, though with a bite of green onion the flavours were enhanced.
We were brought a vibrant beet salad courtesy the owner before our pork belly milk buns with tangy hoisin were dropped off. The white buns were dense and the pork belly tender enough to shred. The Tokyo Dog was delicious, with spicy kimchi and caramelized onions. With each hit of a dish, our server would announce to the cooks the success with a holler and thumbs up.
DonDon Izakaya has an extensive selection of sake – to be expected – and most are moderately priced enough to warrant ordering a bottle…or three. (We only had one.) Nothing on the menu is priced above $12, which is perfect to be able to sample what the head chef calls Japanese/North American fusion.
While the dishes at DonDon could use a little refining, it’s nonetheless a great experience. You go for the atmosphere, the frenetic energy, a host of share plates, and any style of sake you can dream of. DonDon Izakaya is set to hold a grand opening mid February, and until then are taking suggestions and feedback with utmost care and consideration. It’s already a busy spot; by 7pm the seats were full and when we left there were about 15 excited diners waiting to walk through the curtain into a taste of Japan. Ladies and gents, DonDon Izakaya is a great new resto worthy of note…or call it notable…whatever your preference.
DonDon Izakaya, 136 Dundas Street West, Toronto.