Laurea: Jeff Stinco Lights Up Laurier

We’ve all had our eye on Laurea, the latest transformation of the former Laurier BBQ led by Simple Plan guitarist Jeff Stinco. Though the space has seen its fair share of volatility over the last few years, a tour around the magnificent redesign is all it takes to see that Laurea will quickly reclaim its status as a Plateau institution. 

Prepare for farm-to-table cuisine, a casual-cool atmosphere and a supremely stunning space. The entrance of Laurea leads to a dimly lit “antechamber” lounge where diners will be able to whet their whistle and even knock back a couple of oysters as they wait to be seated. “I hate when people are waiting without a drink,” says Stinco. “This is the perfect way to get the night started.” What’s more, all the bartenders double as musicians, and a piano behind the bar will let them charm you between rounds. “I’m in show business,” says Stinco. “If there’s no show, I’m out!”

On the second level is the main dining room, a rustic-industrial space reminiscent of a converted Soho loft with an interplay of homey natural textures and chic European-inspired finishings. “I like things that are comfortable,” says interior designer Rebecca Bourke, who typically works on country estates. “I’m not trying to make a design statement here. It’s clear that it’s from 2014, but it’s also timeless.” Rebecca worked with her usual cast of Quebec artisans and carpenters to create a truly original concept with custom details at every turn: dramatic copper lamps created from original sketches, a main bar crafted from Pierre de Champlain limestone, and impressive woodwork throughout. 

But the real masterpiece is the Laurea courtyard, an exquisite expanse of grey and white Moroccan tiles crowned with a spectacular retractable skylight, the first of its kind. “The inspiration came from the interior courtyards of Europe,” explains Rebecca. “I wanted you to feel like you’re somewhere else for the evening.” The courtyard’s white-painted panels will be adorned with a living wall where Chef Hakim Chajar can grow fresh basil and other herbs. Fresh lemon leaves will also be at hand, plucked directly from the courtyard’s potted lemon trees. 

Fresh is indeed the magic word for Hakim, who designs his dishes based on the season’s most stimulating produce. The Laurea menu won’t be defined by any particular cuisine, explains Hakim, who helped conceive the menu for Shingy, Stinco’s restaurant on Notre Dame. “It’s based on the market; the products, what’s fresh in that moment.”  

“Imagination, reflexion, execution. That’s how I create my menu,” he says, and he brings a no-nonsense attitude to cooking. In the summer, expect lighter dishes, while the winter menu will carry comfort cuisine, all inspired by travels in Spain, Portugal, Italy, and California. “Everything is a project. Every single dish. In the end, it’s all about taste, taste, taste, taste, taste.”

“I’m so proud in the morning to put on my white jacket. I just love what I do. And I’m so lucky to have people around me that are amazing,” says Hakim. 

The chef’s careful creations will be made right before your eyes, in a breathtaking open kitchen at the far end of the dining room. “My staff and I are all very excited,” says Hakim. “We are used to being behind the wall. Now we are inviting people into our house.” Not only will diners be able to watch the master at work, a sprawling chef’s table puts them right in the action, almost like being in your very own kitchen. “When you throw a house party, everyone ends up in the kitchen,” says Stinco. “There’s a very homey feel to this concept. You can make great food in a casual environment. You can do things properly without making it stiff.” 

While Laurea is bringing us exciting new cuisine along with a serious facelift, the team was keen to maintain some relics of its past. “There’s a tip of the hat to Laurier,” says Stinco, who remembers the old Montreal establishment fondly. So where can we see vestiges of the long lost Laurier? Though the menu will have a Mediterranean flair, Hakim has decided to include one illustrious ingredient. “There will be chicken,” says Hakim, “but I’m doing it my way.” 

Evidence of the old space also comes through in the décor. Look close enough and you’ll notice original details: the wainscotting around the terrace, the ceiling tiles in the lounge. In fact, much of Laurea’s materials are repurposed from the original space. “I wanted to use what was there while completely changing it,” explains Rebecca. The tables are recycled from Laurier’s staircase. The original facade is intact. Even the renowned rooster will continue to roost above the door. Possibly the coolest shout out to the old Laurier, however, is the trees. Real, live lauriers that will bloom over the Laurea courtyard. Talk about a fresh start.

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