Oh yes, Montreal seafood lovers, it’s really happening.
You’ve heard the chatter – but Notable has the scoop.
Our favourite oyster shucker, the one and only Daniel Notkin, founder of Montreal Oysterfest, owner of the Old Port Fishing Co., co-producer of the upcoming documentary Shuckers, and the man responsible for your love affair with oysters is opening his very own oyster Mecca. And all we can say is hold on to your half shells.
When the city’s most famous oyster shucker puts his name on a restaurant, you know it’s going to be epic. After all, Notkin is synonymous with impeccably shucked, melt-in-your-mouth oysters that simply put the rest to shame. But after getting toured through the soon-to-open seafood palace by none other than the shucker king himself, it’s clear that Notkins is poised to be a national seafood establishment.
A Canadian Joe’s Stonecrab, only way, way cooler.
Let’s start with the décor. Just off Bleury and René-Lévesque, take a step into a seemingly innocent courtyard and instead, find yourself before the gated pathway of the Marriott’s manicured gardens and the entrance to Notkins. Reminiscent of Massachusetts’s beach homes, with their water-facing back entrances, the intimacy and mystique of the garden provide a hint of what’s to come.
Inside, picture a modern lighthouse: two stories of ten-foot windows evoke a vivid light and airiness crowned with a spectacular bulwark of African Walnut sailing across the concrete shell. Nine enormous glass panels anchored into the ceiling will hold troughs with floating candlewicks flickering above high-top seating. And in the centre of it all (where else would it be) stands the pièce de resistance – a sprawling, curving oyster bar that accommodates not one, but three extraordinary oyster shuckers. And in the middle of the bar a towering, shimmering, stainless steel seafood display.
“Picture a four-foot tall, two-tier seafood platter lit with the most magnificent light and you’ll start to get an idea of how great this oyster bar is,” describes Notkin with his characteristic passion. The oyster bar tappers into a long communal bar, outfitted with industrial bar stools and a centre aisle along the middle that will allow waiters to walk through – and even let the shuckers do their sweet thing right before your very eyes. In the summer, the expanses of windows will transform into folding doors, allowing you to sip and savour en plein air.
Just in case you aren’t impressed yet, let’s move to the second floor.
Channeling some sort of amusement park ride, Notkins has designed avant-garde overhang seating with banquettes that literally jut out over the tables below.
“It’s on the edge of your dinner seating,” Daniel jokes. “You know, dine at your own peril.” The entire second floor is configured to accommodate private events. A selection of tables can be completely closed off to ensure total privacy, and there’s even a convertible oyster shucking station – a table that flips open to reveal a hidden oyster bar. Très cool, we know. Even the bathrooms have been cleverly designed, featuring port-a-potty doors that open to reveal a white marble oasis.
“We went over every single millimetre of the space,” says Emilie Rainville, co-owner and operating partner of Notkins and managing partner for Oysterfest. Each light is strategically placed (“plates should be lit, people should stay in sexy darkness”). Even the width of the tables was measured to create a cozy intimacy. (“Hold my hand, now lean in. That’s the perfect table width.”) But Daniel’s eye really starts to twinkle when he describes a custom built showcase that will feature seashells from around the world. “When I was a kid, I used to spend my summers by the seashore,” Daniel recalls. “My dad used to collect or buy seashells and wrap up each one. The highlight would be the occasion of unwrapping each shell, one by one, and marveling at the fragile spikes and beautiful shapes. I was always fascinated that nature could make these amazing creations.”
Now that we’ve set the scene, let’s talk about the seafood spectacular that will be the Notkins menu. If you’ve ever tried an Old Port Fishing Company oyster, you have an idea of what to expect. Now expand that to lobster, crab, shrimp, clams, tuna, and bluefish, and more prepped in the only way Daniel knows how: as fresh as fresh gets. Whatever your seafood fancy, Notkins wants it to be the star of the show.
“When you look at a sculpture, you shouldn’t say, ‘what a talented sculptor’, but rather, ‘what a beautiful piece’,” explains Daniel. “I want my chefs and shuckers to fade into the background. Only the freshness of the product should shine through.”
Aside from glorious plates of expertly shucked oysters, expect fresh steamed lobster, whole grilled fish, fresh cut sashimi, ceviches, homemade house sauces, and for dessert, his grandmother, Zoe Notkin’s strawberry rhubarb pie served up with homemade ice-cream (“that’s a Daniel Notkin law – who doesn’t serve ice cream with dessert?!”). When you are working with the best ingredients, it’s easy to offer incredibly healthy dishes that are also extremely flavourful, explains Daniel.
And of course, every perfect plate of seafood needs to be paired with a perfect wine. Notkins’ wine cellar will be unlike any other in Montreal. The custom-built, all-glass creation will house private import wine from around the world, each one chosen with a specific dish in mind.
“I taste wine for what it will go with on the menu,” Daniel explains. “The pairing is the experience.”
But Notkins isn’t just about serving up the highest quality, freshest seafood or the most delectable wine selection. It’s about sustainability – using environmentally friendly techniques and practices that keep oceans happy.
“Part of our mission is to educate people about what they’re eating,” says Daniel. The principles of the Open Pier Foundation, Daniel’s non-profit for ocean sustainability and awareness, will be integrated into Notkins so that seafood lovers can learn a little something as they enjoy their fine fare.
We can’t wait.
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