Modern bartending is about so much more than just the drinks.
The service, ambience, and conversation are all essential aspects of the experience that complement what’s in the glass.
We caught up with eight bartenders from young professional hot spots across the country who deliver the entire package and asked them to let us in on their craft. We were especially curious about their thoughts on what makes London, England – home of the beloved Beefeater gin – such a special cocktail city.
Today we chat with Patrice Plante of Quebec City hot spot Bistro L’Atelier.
Describe your job in under 140 characters. Go.
My job is the bar. It’s all about people and new beginnings; the joy of sharing another day on the planet with new and familiar faces.
How did you start in this business? What was the inspiration for your career route?
I fell in love with the restaurant business automatically, because all you have to deal with each day is pleasing people and helping them enjoy a great moment. Of course it’s physically and emotionally hard, but Anthony Bourdain’s books convinced me, and so I decided to quit everything and try cooking myself. That was three years ago. I co-founded an anti-foodie food club in Montreal (Tripes & Caviar), where it was all about the experience, the commitment to people (no cell phones allowed), and the use of everything the animal and the plants gave you.
In 2012, it became apparent that we sucked at wine pairing, so to give us an edge we tried cocktail pairing instead and hired a mixologist. I had a Negroni, saw the flair of the job and the joy of actually creating in front of the customer (not in a remote underground and stained kitchen), and I knew that was what I was going to do for the rest of my life.
I loaded all my credit cards and spent the next six months going to the best bars in the world (New York, San Francisco, Boston, London, Paris, India, Tokyo). I learned the craft from the best bartenders, spying on their technique and keeping what I loved from each of them to create my own style.
I opened my first cocktail bar in my hometown of Quebec City (as a regular bartender) in July 2012 and grew a compulsion to share my interests, and the cocktail culture in general, with everyone in Canada – to open their eyes to this craft that is so old and so full of stories. I am now Bar Chef at this same bar, L’Atelier, and work for TV, radio, and magazines to further spread the culture.
What’s the latest trend you see in bartending? What’s something the newest generation of bartenders is bringing to the job?
I think bartending is influenced by cooking trends. Right now I see the development of a Nordic trend slowly appearing, with mushrooms and sea herbs making their way into the glass. The new generation brings more interest in cooking techniques, which leads to better homemade products and outstanding ingredients, but they sometimes skip the basics and the knowledge of all that is classic in the craft – and that’s paramount.
What’s the best part of what you do on a day-to-day basis? And what’s the most challenging part?
I can’t stop creating and learning new stuff, knowing that the more I learn, the less I know. For me, the act of creating something new or building a perfect, classic cocktail is always a positive feeling that keeps me alive.
The most challenging part of my job as a head bartender is to keep this passion and commitment to the craft at the same level for all of my staff; to keep them wanting more and living to the same standard every night and to be proud of what they do.
Why is London, England such an important player when it comes to the latest and greatest cocktail trends?
London attracts bartenders from all around the world. It’s the center of worldwide mixology, where people from different cultures work in the same place and create an entire cocktail menu. That’s how you create new and great trends – when the creativity of people from different cultures collides. When I go to London, that is what always shocks me the most (in a good way). The bartenders there are not just English; they come from all the corners of the world and are dedicated to reflecting London’s reputation and delivering the best. Always.
What is it about gin that makes it so unique and versatile?
Juniper is a spice full of warmth, and there is nothing people crave more than the warm embrace of comfort. This is the base of gin, and you can add other botanicals to make it the way you like – straightforward, fresh, tart, heavy. If there are a thousand different gins in the world, then there are a thousand different ways to enjoy life. And that’s good news.
What’s your favourite gin cocktail – both to make for someone else and to drink yourself?
My answer is predictable, but it will always be the dry martini. I think gin and vermouth were meant to be married and each variation used can express a different mood. And I love my cocktails to serve the mood and the season I am in.
If you could have a gin cocktail in any bar in London, England, where would that be and why? And, of course, what would you order
The Connaught. These bartenders have panache, skills, and stories to tell. Their service of the dry martini is impeccable; it’s the most near-perfect-with-a-bowtie-experience you can get. I love the philosophy behind choosing your own gin, the bitter that reflects your mood, and the option of citrus. This is a complete and authentic martini experience. Oh, and this Czech waitress. Ok, I think I’m done talking now…
What is it about London that inspired your cocktail?
London is a wonderful city and the first big trip I took alone. I remember arriving there all by myself for the first time in my life and thinking about my family. I had my first tea ceremony, with the sandwiches, the cookies, the macarons. I remember choosing Earl Grey and Orange Pekoe teas, seated on the terrace overlooking the property and the park. It was so simple – sipping and enjoying the moment, I felt like a true Londoner myself.
This first romantic contact with the simplicity of traveling alone always comes back to my mind when I visit a new country and I always try to replicate a moment like that whenever I go, taking time to send postcards to my loved ones and infuse myself with the new place.
That is the spirit I wanted to infuse my cocktail with – this moment that is so London and, by extension, so tied to the spirit and history of Beefeater gin itself.
What does success look like to you? Other than a strong martini, of course.
Success, to me, is all about having time. Time to be with those I love. Time to share my passions with them. And yes, that implies some highly alcoholic libations. For me, the rest is nothing. If you don’t have time for the ones you care about, you are not achieving success. Not one bit.
What’s the best (gin) order someone could ever give you?
A Gimlet. So simple, yet it showcases your personality and that of the gin at the same time. Your homemade cordial and the gin you choose for your customer can say a lot about you as a human being and as a bartender. It also tells a lot about the customer ordering it – it means he gave you his total and uncompromising trust. Long-lasting friendships can be formed around a Gimlet.
12. What’s the most memorable moment you’ve ever had standing behind a bar?
The first time a girl tried to kiss me while I was working and her friend filled my entire mouth with 20 dollar bills. I knew at this point my job would never, ever, be boring. That and the fact that tasting money ruins your palate for an entire night.
13. If you could have a gin cocktail with anyone in the world (James Bond doesn’t count), who would it be and why?
A gin & tonic with the 18th century British naval officer who combined his ration of gin with the quinine soda, which they used to fight malaria, and say, “Dude, don’t do this! You will be responsible for countless hangovers in the world for ages to come!”
And then, of course, I would take out my mug, combine it myself, and get drunk and sing on the boat after all!
14. And finally, what – to you – is notable?
A woman ordering a third Negroni.
Click here for your chance to win a trip for two to London England that includes a VIP tour of the Beefeater distillery.
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Photographs provided by Vito Amati / www.medianeeds.ca
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